Home › Learn About Tile
Tile Outlets of America · Buyer's Guide
Learn About Tile: a homeowner's guide to choosing the right tile
Tile is one of the most durable, versatile, and long-lasting surfaces you can put in your home — but the sheer number of choices can feel overwhelming. Porcelain or ceramic? What does a PEI rating actually mean? Which finish belongs in a bathroom versus a kitchen?
This guide breaks tile down into plain language so you can shop with confidence and pick a floor or wall you'll love for decades — whether you're remodeling a bathroom, refreshing a backsplash, or retiling your whole home.
What you'll learn
- The three main types of tile
- How to read a tile's specs (PEI, water, slip)
- Tile finishes and where each works best
- Tile sizes and the feel of a room
- How to choose tile room by room
- Grout basics most people forget
- How much tile you actually need
- A simple tile-buying checklist
- Frequently asked questions
Tile types: porcelain, ceramic & natural stone
Nearly every tile you'll shop for falls into one of three categories. Understanding the difference is the single most useful thing you can know going in.
Porcelain tile
Porcelain is a type of ceramic made from denser, more refined clay and fired at very high temperatures. The result is exceptionally hard, dense, and water-resistant — by definition it absorbs 0.5% or less of its weight in water, which is why it's the go-to for floors, wet areas, high-traffic spaces, and outdoor use. It costs a little more and is harder to cut, but it's the most durable mainstream tile you can buy.
Ceramic tile
Ceramic tile is made from natural clay, glazed, and fired at lower temperatures than porcelain. It's softer, easier to cut, and usually more affordable — a great choice for walls, backsplashes, and lower-traffic floors. It absorbs more water than porcelain, so it's less suited to heavy-duty or freeze-prone outdoor applications.
Natural stone tile
Natural stone — marble, travertine, slate, granite, and limestone — offers one-of-a-kind veining and texture that manufactured tile imitates but never fully matches. Stone is beautiful and timeless, but most varieties are porous and need periodic sealing to resist stains and moisture. It's a premium, higher-maintenance option for homeowners who want a genuine natural look.
Quick comparison
| Porcelain | Ceramic | Natural Stone | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Durability | Highest | Good | Varies by stone |
| Water resistance | Excellent (≤0.5%) | Moderate | Low — needs sealing |
| Best for | Floors, wet areas, outdoors, high traffic | Walls, backsplashes, light-traffic floors | Feature areas, high-end finishes |
| Maintenance | Very low | Low | Higher (seal regularly) |
| Relative cost | $$ | $ | $$$ |
How to read a tile's specs
Tile product pages are full of ratings that look like a secret code. Here's how to decode the four that matter most so you can match a tile to the job.
PEI rating (how much wear it can take)
The PEI rating measures how well a glazed tile's surface resists scratching and wear from foot traffic. It runs from 0 to 5:
- PEI 0–1: Walls only — not made for foot traffic.
- PEI 2: Light traffic, such as guest bathrooms.
- PEI 3: Moderate traffic — suitable for most residential floors.
- PEI 4: Moderate-to-heavy traffic, including entryways and light commercial use.
- PEI 5: Heavy commercial traffic.
Rule of thumb: for floors in a home, look for PEI 3 or higher. For walls, PEI doesn't matter.
Water absorption (where it can go)
This tells you how much moisture a tile soaks up, which determines whether it's safe for wet or outdoor areas. Lower is better:
- Impervious (≤0.5%): True porcelain. Ideal for showers, outdoors, and freeze-prone climates.
- Vitreous (0.5–3%): Good for most interior floors and walls.
- Semi-vitreous (3–7%) & non-vitreous (>7%): Best kept to dry interior walls.
In cold climates, low absorption also means frost resistance — water that can't soak in can't freeze, expand, and crack the tile.
Slip resistance (DCOF)
The DCOF rating (Dynamic Coefficient of Friction) measures how slip-resistant a tile is when wet. For floors that may get wet — bathrooms, kitchens, entryways, pool decks — look for a DCOF of 0.42 or higher. Textured and matte finishes generally grip better than polished ones.
Rectified vs. non-rectified edges
Rectified tiles are mechanically ground to a precise, uniform size, which allows very thin grout lines and a crisp, modern look. Non-rectified tiles have a slightly softer edge and need marginally wider grout joints. Neither is "better" — it's an aesthetic and installation choice.
Tile finishes and what they're good for
Finish affects both how a tile looks and how it performs underfoot. The most common options:
- Glazed: A glass-like coating that adds color, pattern, and stain resistance. The most common finish.
- Matte: Low sheen that hides smudges and water spots and offers better grip — a smart pick for floors.
- Polished: High-gloss and elegant, but more slippery and quicker to show scratches and footprints. Best for walls and low-traffic areas.
- Honed: A smooth, satin finish common on stone and marble looks — refined without the glare of polish.
- Textured / structured: Added grip for showers, entryways, and outdoor spaces where slip resistance matters most.
Tile sizes and how they change a room
Tile size isn't just practical — it shapes how big and how busy a space feels. Larger tiles mean fewer grout lines, which makes a room look more open and is easier to keep clean.
- Mosaic (under 2"): Lots of grout lines mean extra grip — great for shower floors, plus accents and feature walls. See mosaic tile.
- Subway (classic 3"×6", and beyond): A timeless, budget-friendly look for backsplashes and shower walls.
- Mid-size (12"×12", 12"×24"): The versatile workhorse for floors and walls.
- Large format (a side of 15" or more): Fewer seams for a clean, contemporary look that makes spaces feel larger. Slightly trickier to install on uneven surfaces.
- Wood-look plank (e.g., 6"×24", 8"×48"): The warmth of hardwood with the durability of tile. Browse wood-look tile.
How to choose tile by room
Bathroom
For bathroom floors, choose porcelain or a slip-resistant tile with a DCOF of 0.42+ and a PEI of 3 or higher. On shower floors, smaller or textured tiles add grip. Shower and bathroom walls have more freedom — ceramic, porcelain, and mosaic all work. Explore bathroom tile.
Kitchen
Kitchen floors take a beating, so prioritize durable porcelain (PEI 3+) in a matte finish for grip and easy cleanup. Backsplashes, on the other hand, are about style — ceramic, glass, and mosaic tiles all shine here since they don't take foot traffic.
Living & whole-home
For open living spaces and continuous whole-home flooring, large-format porcelain — including wood-look planks — is a favorite for its durability, low maintenance, and clean, expansive look.
Outdoor spaces
Outdoors, you need low water absorption (porcelain), a textured slip-resistant surface, and frost resistance in cold climates. Look at outdoor-rated tile built to handle the elements.
Grout basics most people forget
Grout is easy to overlook, but it has a big impact on both looks and maintenance.
- Sanded vs. unsanded: Sanded grout suits wider joints (1/8" and up); unsanded works for thin joints and delicate, polished tiles that sand could scratch.
- Epoxy grout: More stain- and water-resistant and very durable — ideal for showers and busy kitchens, though it costs more and is harder to install.
- Grout color: Matching grout to your tile creates a seamless, larger look; a contrasting color highlights the pattern. Remember that lighter grout shows dirt more easily.
- Sealing: Standard cement-based grout should be sealed to resist stains and moisture. Epoxy grout doesn't need sealing.
How much tile do you need?
Start with the square footage of the space (length × width), then add extra for cuts, breakage, and future repairs:
- Add ~10% for a standard straight-lay installation.
- Add ~15% or more for diagonal layouts, herringbone, large-format tile, or rooms with lots of angles and cuts.
Example: a 10' × 12' room is 120 sq. ft. At a 10% waste factor, you'd order about 132 sq. ft.
Two tips that save real headaches: buy all your tile from the same dye lot (color can vary slightly between production batches), and keep a few spare tiles after the job — matching an exact tile years later is tough.
Your tile-buying checklist
- Match the tile type and PEI rating to the room and traffic level.
- Check water absorption and DCOF for any wet or outdoor area.
- Order a single piece and view it in your own light before committing.
- Confirm everything ships from the same dye lot.
- Order 10–15% extra and keep spares for repairs.
- Choose your grout type and color — it's part of the look, not an afterthought.
Frequently asked questions about tile
Is porcelain or ceramic tile better?
Neither is universally better — it depends on the job. Porcelain is denser, more water-resistant, and more durable, making it the better choice for floors, wet areas, and outdoors. Ceramic is more affordable and easier to cut, which makes it excellent for walls, backsplashes, and lower-traffic floors.
What PEI rating do I need for floor tile?
For floors in a typical home, choose a tile rated PEI 3 or higher. PEI 4 is a good idea for high-traffic spots like entryways. PEI ratings only apply to glazed tile and don't matter for walls.
Can I use wall tile on the floor?
Usually not. Wall tiles are often thinner, more delicate, and not rated for foot traffic or slip resistance. Floor tile can typically be used on walls, but wall tile should not be used on floors. Always check the manufacturer's rating.
What is the most durable type of tile?
Through-body and glazed porcelain are the most durable mainstream tiles, thanks to their density, hardness, and very low water absorption.
What tile is best for a bathroom floor?
Porcelain or another slip-resistant tile with a DCOF of 0.42 or higher and a PEI of 3+. On shower floors, smaller or textured tiles add extra grip underfoot.
Does large-format tile make a room look bigger?
Yes. Larger tiles create fewer grout lines, giving floors and walls a cleaner, more continuous appearance that makes a space feel more open.
How much extra tile should I order?
Add about 10% to your measured square footage for standard installations, or 15%+ for diagonal, herringbone, or large-format layouts. Keep a few spare tiles for future repairs.
Do I need to seal my tile?
Porcelain and most glazed ceramic tiles don't need sealing. Natural stone and unglazed tile do, and standard cement-based grout should be sealed as well. Epoxy grout does not require sealing.
Ready to find your tile?
Now that you know the basics, the best next step is to see tile in person and in your own light. Order a single piece, browse our full selection online, or visit a Tile Outlets store to talk with an expert who can help you choose with confidence.