Everything you wanted to know about tile, stone & mosaics

Both are made from clay fired in a kiln, and porcelain is technically a type of ceramic — but porcelain uses denser, more refined clay fired at higher temperatures. The practical difference is water absorption: porcelain absorbs 0.5% or less of its weight in water, while standard ceramic absorbs more. That makes porcelain harder, more durable, and better suited to wet areas, high-traffic floors, and outdoor use. Ceramic is softer, easier to cut, often more affordable, and a great pick for walls and lighter-traffic indoor spaces.

Natural stone — marble, travertine, limestone, slate, granite — is quarried from the earth and cut into tile rather than manufactured from clay. Every piece is one of a kind, with veining and color movement no printed tile fully replicates. The trade-off: most stone is porous and needs sealing, and softer stones like marble and travertine can etch from acidic spills. It rewards a little maintenance with unmatched character.

Mosaic tile is made of small pieces — squares, hexagons, penny rounds, or stone chips — mounted on a mesh or paper sheet so you can set many at once. Because the small format flexes over contours and packs in plenty of grout lines for grip, mosaics are popular for shower floors, backsplashes, accent walls, and niches. The same look is available in glass, porcelain, ceramic, and natural stone.

Yes, and it's one of the best-performing shower floor options when installed correctly. The caveat: the mesh and extra grout lines can hold moisture if the shower isn't built to drain and dry properly. Choose a small-format mosaic with good slip resistance, make sure your installer uses a proper waterproofing system beneath it, and keep the space ventilated.

It's porcelain or ceramic tile printed and textured to mimic hardwood planks, marble, or concrete — not the real material. You get the look of wood or stone with the durability and water resistance of porcelain: no refinishing, no warping, and no sealing the "wood." Wood-look plank tile is especially popular in kitchens, baths, and homes with pets.

Rectified tile has had its edges mechanically ground to a precise, uniform size after firing. That allows very thin, tight grout lines and a clean, contemporary look — ideal for large-format and modern installs. It usually costs a little more and benefits from an experienced installer, since the precise edges leave less room to hide layout drift.

Check the tile's PEI rating and slip resistance. Wall tiles aren't built to bear foot traffic, but most floor-rated tiles can also go on walls. As a rule of thumb, use PEI 3 or higher for residential floors and verify slip resistance for any wet area. Every tile we sell has a spec sheet — ask us if you're unsure.

PEI (Porcelain Enamel Institute) rates a glazed tile's resistance to surface wear, roughly 0 to 5. PEI 1–2 is wall-only or very light use; PEI 3 handles normal residential floors; PEI 4 suits heavy residential and light commercial; PEI 5 is built for heavy commercial traffic. Match the rating to how hard the floor will be used.

DCOF (Dynamic Coefficient of Friction) measures grip when a tile is wet — higher means less slippery. The Tile Council of North America recommends a DCOF of 0.42 or higher for interior floors that get wet, such as baths, kitchens, and entries. Polished and glossy tiles look beautiful but get slick when wet, so favor matte or textured finishes underfoot in those areas.

Water absorption rates how porous a tile is, which decides where it can safely go. Porcelain absorbs 0.5% or less and is considered "impervious," making it the right call for wet and outdoor areas. In climates with freeze-thaw cycles, low absorption is critical — water trapped in a porous tile expands when it freezes and can crack it. For patios, pools, and exteriors, look for porcelain rated frost-resistant.

Glossy finishes reflect light and make a space feel larger, but they show water spots and get slippery when wet. Matte hides smudges and grips better, which is safer for floors and wet areas. Textured adds traction and depth — ideal for showers, entries, and outdoors. Choose by location first, looks second.

Shade variation describes how much color and pattern differ from tile to tile, rated V1 (uniform) to V4 (highly varied). V1 gives a clean, consistent look; V3–V4 — common in wood-looks and stone-looks — gives an organic result where no two pieces match. Neither is "better"; it's the look you want. Dry-lay a few pieces before setting so the spread feels intentional.

Order more than your exact square footage to cover cuts, breakage, and future repairs. A good rule of thumb: add 10% for simple layouts with standard or large-format tile, 15% for most projects, and up to 20% or more for diagonal, herringbone, mosaic, or rooms with lots of angles and cutouts. Always round up to full boxes and keep a spare from the same batch.

Tile is produced in batches, and color can shift slightly from one batch to the next — even for the same product. So buy all the tile for a project at once and confirm it's from the same lot. It's also why we recommend keeping leftovers: a future repair from a different batch may not match perfectly.

Always. Lighting, grout color, and surrounding finishes dramatically change how a tile reads in your home. Order a single piece, view it in the actual room at different times of day, and set it against your cabinets, paint, and grout choice before committing. It's the cheapest insurance against an expensive mistake.

Sometimes — if the existing tile is solidly bonded, flat, and clean, and the added height won't interfere with doors or transitions. The old surface usually needs to be roughed up and primed so the new thinset bonds. That said, tiling over can hide underlying problems, so when in doubt, removing the old tile is the safer long-term choice. Have your installer assess the substrate first.

For wet areas — showers, tub surrounds, bath and laundry floors — yes. Tile and grout are not inherently waterproof, so a proper backer board or waterproofing membrane behind and beneath the tile is what actually protects the structure. Skipping it is the most common cause of failed showers. This is the part of a job worth doing right.

Backsplashes and small, simple floors are achievable for a confident DIYer. Showers, large-format and rectified tile, natural stone, and anything that needs waterproofing are where a pro earns their fee — these are unforgiving of small mistakes. If a failure would mean water damage, lean professional.

It comes down to grout-line width. Use sanded grout for joints 1/8 inch and wider — the sand adds strength and resists shrinking and cracking. Use unsanded grout for narrow joints under 1/8 inch and for delicate surfaces like polished marble or glass, which sanded grout can scratch. When in doubt, follow the tile manufacturer's recommendation.

Epoxy grout is made from resins instead of cement, so it's waterproof, highly stain- and chemical-resistant, and never needs sealing. It's the gold standard for shower floors, kitchen backsplashes, and commercial spaces. The trade-offs are a higher price and a tougher, faster-setting install that rewards an experienced hand. For high-use wet areas, many homeowners find it well worth it.

Grout color quietly changes the whole look. Match the grout to the tile for a seamless, continuous surface that makes a space feel larger; contrast it to frame each tile and emphasize a pattern like subway or herringbone. Mid-tone grouts tend to hide dirt best in high-traffic areas. Always view grout samples against your actual tile before deciding.

Cement-based grout (sanded and unsanded) is porous and should be sealed after it cures, then resealed periodically to resist stains and moisture — especially in showers and kitchens. Epoxy grout is the exception: it's non-porous and doesn't need sealing. A quick reseal roughly once a year in wet areas keeps grout lines looking fresh.

Most natural stone — marble, travertine, limestone, slate — is porous and should be sealed to protect against stains and moisture. Seal at installation, and for porous stone, often before grouting so grout doesn't stain the surface. A penetrating sealer soaks in without changing the look or making the stone slippery.

It depends on the stone and how hard the area is used — from every 6–12 months in busy kitchens and showers to every few years in light-use spaces. Use the simple water-drop test: place a few drops of water on the stone and wait. If it beads up, the seal is intact; if it soaks in and darkens within about half an hour, it's time to reseal.

No — avoid vinegar, lemon, bleach, ammonia, and other acidic or harsh cleaners on marble, travertine, and limestone. Acids etch the surface, leaving dull spots that sealing won't fix. Clean stone with a pH-neutral stone cleaner and wipe up acidic spills like wine, coffee, and citrus right away.

Sweep or vacuum (skip the heavy beater bar) to lift grit that dulls the surface, then mop with warm water and a pH-neutral cleaner — or a mild dish-soap solution for ceramic and porcelain. Change the water as it gets dirty so you're not pushing grime into the grout, and avoid abrasive pads on polished finishes. For wood-look and porcelain, a damp microfiber mop is ideal.

Wipe spills promptly, use a soft grout brush with a mild cleaner for buildup, and keep cement grout sealed so dirt can't settle in. Steer clear of harsh acids and heavy bleach, which break grout down over time. Choosing a mid-tone grout up front and sealing it makes everyday upkeep much easier.

It's one of the best. Porcelain in particular resists scratches, stains, and moisture, won't absorb pet accidents, and shrugs off heavy traffic and dropped toys. Choose a higher PEI rating and a slip-resistant finish for busy households, and tile will outlast almost anything else underfoot.